We’re shifting gears from last week’s focus on full-lume-dial watches to bring you something fresh. Firstly, a big thank you to everyone who contributed fantastic suggestions in the comments section of last week’s list. There were numerous outstanding recommendations that easily could have made it onto our list. This time around, we’re revisiting the first six months of 2024. Instead of highlighting the best releases, our attention turns to the most surprising and noteworthy watches we’ve encountered thus far.
As I take a brief respite from the dreary Dutch weather with a holiday in sunny Croatia, it’s an opportune moment for reflection. With nearly half of the year behind us, it’s fitting to revisit some of the most unexpected releases thus far. To clarify, these selections aren’t necessarily the pinnacle of horological achievement. Rather, they stand out for various reasons – whether due to their design, the element of surprise they brought, or their exceptional quality once examined up close. Each of these five watches pleasantly caught us off guard, earning them a spot as our most surprising releases of the first half of 2024.
The original Piaget Polo models epitomized luxury watchmaking during the late 1970s and early 1980s. These watches blended extravagant style with precious metals and quartz movements, making them the ultimate statement of that era.
While the stylistic choices of the ’80s were once met with skepticism, the acclaim garnered by the Piaget Polo 79 upon its announcement in February of this year was truly surprising. While watch enthusiasts recognize the significance of the Piaget Polo within the context of its era, the widespread applause for the modern Polo 79 caught us off guard.
Despite initial reservations, several members of the Fratello team, including Robert-Jan, Laurits, and myself, found ourselves enamored with this grandiose symbol of opulence. The decision by Piaget to incorporate a mechanical movement only adds to its allure. While it deviates from the original Polo, this modern iteration holds significant appeal for replica watch aficionados. However, its limited production numbers and steep retail price of €81,500 (including 21% VAT) mean that few will have the opportunity to acquire one.
Yet, what this sum secures is nothing short of remarkable. As Robert-Jan elucidated, the Polo 79 boasts a full 18K gold construction, weighing nearly 200 grams and measuring 38mm in width and 7.45mm in thickness. These perfect proportions are achieved through the ultra-thin micro-rotor caliber 1200P1, which measures a mere 2.25mm in thickness and offers a 44-hour power reserve. However, the true essence of the Piaget Polo 79 lies in its ability to recapture the stylistic brilliance of its predecessor. Despite its somewhat unexpected timing, this release feels impeccably timed.
Upon Lex’s return from Audemars Piguet’s headquarters in Le Brassus, a single glance at a picture of the [RE]Master02 Selfwinding was all it took to win me over. The meticulous design and exquisite craftsmanship evident in this exceptional watch are truly commendable. Lex explained that the [RE]Master02 Selfwinding draws inspiration from Audemars Piguet’s Model 5159BA from 1960, showcased at the Musee Atelier Audemars Piguet. This contemporary iteration stands out with its angular case design and shaped sapphire crystal, exuding undeniable allure.
Furthermore, the execution of various elements is nothing short of brilliant. The 41 × 9.7mm octagonal case, crafted from 18K sand gold with a horizontally brushed finish, is truly captivating. As Lex pointed out, sand gold possesses a hue that falls between white and pink gold, resulting in a visually striking aesthetic that accentuates the case’s form.
The captivating “Bleu Nuit Nuage 50” dial, complemented by elegantly simple yet stylish hands, provides a striking contrast to the case. To me, the design and craftsmanship of this dial are simply breathtaking. While standalone images of the watch may evoke admiration, it’s the integration into the watch as a whole that truly showcases its status as a work of art.
Ticking within the case is AP’s hour-and-minute-only caliber A7129, also utilized in its flagship Royal Oak “Jumbo.” While there’s a nod to its iconic Royal Oak lineage, what truly captivates is Audemars Piguet’s decision to surprise enthusiasts with this €47,400 [RE]Master02 Selfwinding. Finally, we’re presented with a watch that deviates from the Royal Oak archetype, showcasing the brand’s archival brilliance. While the Royal Oak holds a special place in our hearts, Genta’s creation often dominates AP’s new releases. Thus, the unveiling of this [RE]Master02 Selfwinding is both refreshing and exhilarating. It’s a watch that caught us completely off guard.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric
In recent years, Parmigiani has garnered significant acclaim with its Tonda PF line. This collection masterfully blends minimalist design with ingenious complications, keeping enthusiasts eagerly anticipating each release. However, following replica Watches and Wonders from Replicaimitation, it wasn’t the Tonda PF that had tongues wagging. This time, it was Parmigiani’s revitalized Toric collection that stole the spotlight. Particularly noteworthy was the Toric Petite Seconde, leaving a lasting impression.
For those familiar with the previous Toric watches, which often blended into the background, the revamped Toric collection marks a complete transformation. Aligning with the design ethos of the Tonda PF while retaining the essence of its predecessor, the new Toric collection exudes undeniable charm.
The Toric Petite Seconde models feature a redesigned 40.6mm case, retaining the knurled bezel characteristic of previous Toric watches. Available in platinum or pink gold, both variants boast stunning gold dials with a grained matte texture in soft hues, lending them a distinguished presence. The pink gold iteration (CHF 45,000) showcases a sandy gold dial, while the platinum model (CHF 52,000) boasts a soft gray-green (or celadon) dial.
Despite their seemingly minimalist design, these watches abound with delightful details. From the chapter ring with its applied indices to the recessed small seconds counter, every element is thoughtfully executed. Powering these watches is Parmigiani’s in-house manual-winding PF780 movement, featuring 18K rose gold bridges. This exquisite caliber complements the aesthetic beautifully, further enhanced by the curved-end leather straps. In essence, these surprising Toric Petite Seconde models underscore Parmigiani’s mastery of design, extending beyond the Tonda PF line.
Rolex Deepsea ref. 136638LB
The talk of Watches and Wonders this year undoubtedly centered around the Rolex Deepsea ref. 136638LB. This 320-gram behemoth, resplendent in gold, sparked numerous inquiries. Why would Rolex craft a gold iteration of its most rugged professional dive watch?
Just when titanium seemed to be the future for Rolex’s sports watches, the brand blindsided us with this audacious gold watch. While delving into its specifications might emphasize its capabilities as a dive watch, such details seem trivial in comparison to its sheer extravagance.
Sporting a 44mm case measuring 17.7mm in thickness, 51.8mm in length, and 22mm between the lugs, the dimensions alone paint a picture of this substantial gold watch. With an impressive depth rating of 3,990 meters (12,800 feet) and a helium escape valve, this watch exudes confidence in the depths.
The blue dial, adorned with applied yellow gold indexes and white luminescence for legibility, ensures readability even in the depths of the ocean. Housed within is Rolex’s in-house caliber 3235, a Superlative Chronometer movement boasting 70 hours of power reserve and an accuracy of ±2 seconds per day.
The question on everyone’s lips, including ours, wasn’t about its technical prowess but rather why Rolex chose to release this €56,300 watch. The answer? Simply because they can. This latest addition to Rolex’s lineup continues the tradition of opulent gold sports clone watches. While undeniably extravagant, it’s a fitting addition to the brand’s portfolio. Nonetheless, we can’t help but yearn for more titanium sports models from Rolex, following the success of last year’s titanium Yacht-Master 42. In this regard, the unveiling of the Deepsea ref. 136638LB certainly caught us off guard.
Toledano & Chan B/1
The resurgence of rectangular bracelet-style watches has captured the collective imagination. With a growing appreciation for watches that strike a balance between bracelet and watch, several intriguing releases have graced the market. Additionally, there’s been a surge in interest among collectors seeking pre-owned bracelet-style watches from the 1970s and ’80s.
In a previous Top 5 article series, I explored the brilliance of Piaget watches that embody this aesthetic. However, the most impressive debut in this style came unexpectedly from newcomer Toledano & Chan. While one might expect such innovation from established names like Piaget or Cartier, it was a pleasant surprise to witness it from a fledgling brand with its inaugural release.
Founders Phil Toledano, an artist and avid watch collector, and Alfred Chan, a Chinese watch designer, found common ground in their appreciation for Brutalist architecture. Drawing inspiration from an asymmetrically shaped window at New York City’s former Met Breuer building, they crafted the B/1, a watch that commands attention. Crafted from 904L steel, the watch features a case measuring 33.5mm in diameter, 31.5mm in length, and 9.1-10.4mm in thickness, seamlessly integrated with an integrated bracelet boasting brushed and matte-blasted finishes for a distinctive appearance.
The allure of the B/1 lies in its meticulous design details. The asymmetrical presence of the case, tapering from 10.4mm to 9.1mm, mirrors the visual effect of the window that inspired its creation. A substantial bevel on the right side adds visual drama, complementing the exquisite lapis lazuli dial. The choice of a stone dial harks back to the similarly styled fake watches created by prominent brands in the 1970s, offering a striking contrast to the utilitarian case and bracelet.
Powering the watch is a Sellita SW200-1 movement, providing 41 hours of power reserve and operated by the crown on the left side of the case. The B/1 stands as one of the most surprising and standout releases of the first half of 2024. With all 175 pieces swiftly selling out at US$4,000 each, we eagerly await Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan’s next venture. Their debut has left an indelible mark, and we’re excited to see what they have in store next.